bensebuilt

And Now I'm Here

Tue, 15 Sep 2009 01:28:25 GMT

I see that a few of you on the forums have wondered where I went. I would like to now address that. Because the transistion was a pretty big step for me.

To quote one of my favorite movies:
[On the phone]
Ed Rooney: Are you also aware, Mrs. Bueller, that Ferris does not have what we consider to be an exemplary attendance record?
Katie Bueller: I don't understand.
Ed Rooney: He has missed an unacceptable number of school days. In the opinion of this educator, Ferris is not taking his academic growth seriously. Now I've spent my morning examining his records. If Ferris thinks that he can just coast through this month and still graduate, he is sorely mistaken. I have no reservations whatsoever about holding him back another year.
Katie Bueller: This is all news to me.
Ed Rooney: It usually is. So far this semester he has been absent nine times.
Katie Bueller: Nine times?
Ed Rooney: Nine times.
Katie Bueller: I don't remember him being sick nine times.
Ed Rooney: That's probably because he wasn't sick. He was skipping school. Wake up and smell the coffee, Mrs. Bueller. It's a fool's paradise. He is just leading you down the primrose path.
Katie Bueller: I can't believe it.
Ed Rooney: I've got it right here in front of me. He has missed nine days...
[His computer screen begins counting down from nine to two. Ferris is at home looking at the same screen]
Ferris: I asked for a car, I got a computer. How's that for being born under a bad sign?

The very last line is one that I think about a lot. When I was in high school, I got a computer for a car. And I spent allllll of my energy learning as much as I could about computers. Which led me to my fascination with the linux operating system. When I was in highschool I was a C student. I never focused on class, and I always focused on what I wanted to focus on, which was computers.

But then I got a car.......

I got my car prior to entering my freshman year of college. I was immediately fascinated. All the tinkering that I had done with computers could also be done with engines to increase vehicle performance. I was immediately hooked and fascinated. I was so hooked, that I couldn't focus on my school work, and I ended up dropping out of school because I wasn't learning about what I wanted to learn about. Oh, and my intended major is the same as it's always been, mechanical engineering.

Freshman year of college for me was Fall 2003 - Spring 2004 at USC-Upstate. I left before they asked me to leave, and I earned a 0.875 GPA. People always think that I was partying. I didn't really party a whole lot, I instead was distracted with linux and cars.

I moved back home and took some courses at midlands technical college (A local 2 year community college). This went on and off for some time. Beginning in Fall of 2004 - till Fall 2007. I went back in forth between full time and part time student. During this time I was working really crappy jobs. I always had the intentions of going back to finish my degree, and I knew that I wouldn't be satisfied until I did.

I worked several jobs during this period:
* shop assistant - cutting metal, fixing water pumps, sometimes welding, etc.
* delivering pizza
* welding on 18 wheelers - (I had taken 2 years of welding in highschool)
* Teradata - It was a tech support job that my brother helped me get, I got it because of my linux experience. I quickly realized that It wasn't for me.
* NCR - I did technical support and hated it. This was my job breaking point that helped feed my urge to go back to school.

Those are the job situations that most tend to focus on. Most think that that is the biggest reason to me deciding to come back to school. However it is not.

As I mentioned previously, my goal was always, to learn as much as I possibly could about vehicle performance. During this period between 2004-2007 I learned a lot about engines and transmissions. I got a lot of hands on experience in vehicle performance. I was involved with the forums, etc. This was good in a lot of ways however....

The car tuning scene is not a pure scene. What I mean is, it is mostly driven by money. Who has the fastest car? The person/team with the most money. It is not until you get wayyyy up in the tuning scene where research and development are the largest contributers to the build.

Here's an example. I went to a car meet one time in charlotte. There were a lot of vehicles there. One of the vehicles that I saw was an old civic that this kid was working on. It was a 3rd generation civic (1984-1987) and it originally came with a carb'd engine. The kid had converted it to EFI using the megasquirt DIY ECU platform. He had done a lot of other things with the engine that were really neat as well. His engine however was not a powerhouse, it probably would have only put down 115hp. I could tell that the kid was driven by his genuine interest in learning about how the vehicle operated, rather than getting caught up in the rat race of trying to be the fastest. I probably was one of the few people there that paid attention to his car, and was really impressed by his build. Shortly after, a hoodlum pulled up in this civic that he had "built" He bought all these fancy parts and bolted them on. Very little research, learning going on, and a whole lot of money spending. Naturally everyone flooded around the vehicle and was fascinated by the 600hp that the thing probably put down. This is an excellent depiction of the focus of the car scene of typical young males between the ages of 17-30.

After being in this environment, I knew that there had to be something else out there. I was running out of topics to learn about online, and I was running out of people to talk to. I then began looking at books. I got a few books and I knew that they were the next resource that I would need to gather my information from to fuel my passion. However, what I quickly realized was that the audience of these books were people that had completed many of the courses that are found in a mechanical engineering curriculum. Crap, 4 years later and I'm back to square one. This was the point where it really hit me, and where I felt the urge to go back. It was not because of getting a better job, it was because I knew that it would help satisfy my lust for knowledge.

I decided to quit my job at NCR and I signed up for 16 hours of courses at midlands tech. Calculus 1, Chemistry 1, Drafting, a computer math course, intro to welding (I missed welding). When I first got my calculus book, I flipped through it. One of the first example problems involved using calculus for aerodynamics of some wind tunnel that nascar used for performance tuning. I knew that I was in the right place. Full time started in the Spring of 2008, and I have not stopped since. I completed nearly every course that counted towards the first two years of a 4 year mechanical engineering (M.E.) degree. I ran out of courses to take at the technical college and I transferred to a 4 year university.

In choosing universities, I needed one that offered a degree in mechanical engineering, and I needed one that was in-state. This left me with USC or Clemson. My freshman year was at a USC satellite school, which counts as USC. This was the school that I had 'earned' a 0.875 GPA. Despite the fact that I had a 3.3 GPA at midlands tech, with over 50 hours of tough engineering courses, USC didn't want to accept me. This left Clemson, I applied, got accepted and now I'm here.

===========================================================================

I do miss the car tuning scene. I have not "given up" on cars or abandoned the car scene. If anything I'm progressing forward more than I was before. However I am learning the fundamentals now. By doing this, when I read those advanced books, I will be able to understand them, and use them to make my next build that much greater.

I consider this step to be the next step of my next upcoming build, whatever it may be. I don't know yet. I am still in the mindset of taking pictures of some of the steps along the way, and that is what this is:

birthday celebration

Wed, 01 Apr 2009 06:03:41 GMT

This is how I celebrated my 26th birthday (:

A new hobby, writing programs for the ti-89/ti-89 titanium/ti-92/voyage200. TI-BASIC is very easy, and it makes ripping through abnormally large formulas so much easier. This combined with taking advantage of all the functions on these calculators result in better grades. Being able to take advantage of the portable numerical methods technology that's embedded in these devices is one of the greatest assets in an engineering program. Another point about that; I am not a math major. The goal for an engineer is to be able to utilize the power of mathematics to solve the problems that we encounter. This is why the courses within my major are on subjects such as "Kinematics of a Rigid Body: Force and Acceleration" rather than writing proofs. Not to say that I dislike math, or that I am incapable of doing all the algebra/trigonometry/calculus by hand. But in this day in age, everyone's got cell phones that have more computational power than the average computer did 30 years ago.

Updates, my thoughts on the future of honda tuning

Sun, 29 Jul 2007 04:11:27 GMT

A lot has been changing in 2007. Since march I have been moderating three forums on honda-tech.com. 1992-2000 civic forum, Tech/Misc, and Hybrid forums.

I got this new job that allows me to spend more time concentrating on Hondas. My F2D swap being my daily driver feels like an achievement every time I drive it. For the most part it's been a success, but it still has some small kinks to work out.

A while back I wrote a proposal to get a taller d-series 1st gear made. I spoke about it in this blog. well I just got back word from gear-x who is going to send me a prototype to test fit.

I've done a lot of research on these accord/prelude engine to civic/integra transmissions. They seem to be the future of where the honda tuning for the 88-00 civics and the 90-01 integras is heading. There's no need for custom axles, no need for custom linkage. The F/H series engines are cheaper than b-series engines, and the have more potential. The B-series transmissions are expensive, and the D-series are everywhere, and super cheap!

The d-series transmission is weak, but it's only the stock differential. EVERYONE needs to upgrade the open differential to an LSD. The OBX LSD is less than $400 shipped and has a very high success rate. It is very strong, I've seen it take up to 400whp. The d-series trans can also take a good amount of abuse. Several people write it off as weak, but it's really not.

F/H series can't upshift in the higher rpms. Also the cable shifter is sloppy (hard to get an accurate shift)
K-series are nice but they have problems grinding gears (and use the same diff bearings as d-series)
B-series is strong and has not as many issues non lsd diffs are weak
D-series is strong and has a weak diff.

The D trans has bad oem gearing, but it's so cheap that installing and LSD and close ratio gears is cost effective.

H2D and F2D is the future of honda tuning IMHO.

That's all for now, I'll update when I got more time :)

Stay "Tuned"

Euro Intake Manifold Modification Writeup (European F20B H22A Single runner type S)

Sat, 26 May 2007 16:34:55 GMT

I should have just gone with ITBs, it's less work. :P

Most of this comes from my F2D F20B build http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1638988
but I figured that I'd help you prelude guys out :thumbup:

The first thing that I started on was the euro R single runner manifold. This thing by far is the biggest hassle. It requires lots of modification, lots of adapter plates, and lots of attention. I dunno what honda was thinking when they made this thing. Heres what has to be done:

Fuel rail modfication
Throttlebody modification
IACV adapter plate
EGR blockoff plate (or just bolt an unplugged egr switch on there)
Grinding away some material from the IM flange
Blocking off some ports for air injection things
Turning the brake booster hose nipple towards the LHD brake booster
modifying the injector ports

In fact, the only things that is about the same on this and the stock manifold are:
The runners actually line up with cylinder head.
Throttlebody bolt pattern is the same.

I am not gonna use EGR, so I am bypassing that whole system. Finding the EGR lid is a nightmare for this manifold. So I took the holes that lead from the EGR chamber to the runners and blocked them off. I got this sweet gauge thing from home depot that helped out greatly, which told me that the holes were ~6mm. The next size tap is 1/4" which comes out to 6.3500mm. So I used a 1/4-20 tap and corresponding 1/4-20 screws =)

The following links are very useful in selecting the proper thread size.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit_sizes
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_and_tap_size_chart

I picked up some bling stainless steel allen head bolts from home depot as well, and used some aluminum washers to keep it clean. I then used red loctite on the screws and screwed them in place.

Rosko on here sent me an AWESOME IACV adapter that he made. This thing is so nice looking =)

Now it's time for air injection holes to be blocked off, you can see them here (CROTCH SHOT FTW!!!)

and a closeup here

The holes here are 4mm. I needed to find the proper tap to thread this with, so I found this great wikipedia page here and there is no 4mm tap, but the 10-32 uses a #21 drill bit, which is 4.0386mm. So 10-32 it is.

SET SCREWS!!!!! I <3 these things, they're stainless steel, and they are headless, so you use a hex key to screw them in place. They were cool enough to be my default picture on myspace for a while =)

Set screws in place with red loctite!

This KMS ENGINEMANAGERMENTFSDFSD egr blockoff plate is pretty nice and clean, but I am gonna flip it over to the clean smooth side and definitely use some of those bling stainless steel allen head button screws once I order them. These black ones are just for test fit :P FYI: These threads are [b]M8-1.25[/b], I used ones that were 25mm in length.

Weird f20b injector

Partially assembled! You can also get a good view of the brass colored nipples that need to be removed near the throttle body.

You're going to want to remove the large brake booster nipple from the top and drill a hole in this little square block, to move it to the back of the manifold I just drilled a hole and used some JB weld to hold it inplace :thumbup:

I then bought some push nuts from home depot, they were about 87 cents total. I also removed the other nipple from the front of the manifold (near the throttle body) and then tapped these things in there. JB Weld holds them in. You can see these in the final pictures

I ended up needing a IAT sensor, these can be found on our 6th gen accords, here's the part number: [b]37880-P0A-A02[/b], they go for about $23 from hondapartsdeals.com. (PS: It comes with a fresh o-ring on it already, no need to order a seperate one like i did) Or if you feel like plugging this hole and using one on the intake pipe, you can get a M12-1.5 bolt and plug it =)

FUEL RAIL:
I ordered the power rev racing fuel rail adapter plate, but it won't work with the F20B fuel rail lol. So turbogixxer sold me a stock h22 fuel rail, that I can use this plate on. I am using bolts from a d16y8 (96-00 civic ex)

INJECTORS:
here's the stock 2stage manifold injector ports.

I started to port them, but then Jdogg said that his euro manifold from a euro type S engine had the same injectors as the f20b. If honda says you can use these injectors in this manifold without modifying, then that's good enough for me. If you don't feel like modifying the ports for your obd1 injectors, you should look into the RDX injectors, an excellent thread can be found here:
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1871137 The spray pattern on these are much more narrow than the obd1's. Oh, and I'm sure someone is going to say that I should have still modified my ports like the f20b dual runner manifold. Well that manifold is the same as the h22 one, so it has extra room that the older injectors needed, because the spray pattern on these injectors is more narrow, there's still no reason for honda to change the part number on that thing. WERD!

Throttle cable bracket:
Rosko is hooking me up with one of these bad boys:

There's also an alternative ghetto fabulous method. Just get a piece of angle iron or aluminm and drill holes accordingly. Thanks turbogixxer! (ignore the circle, look at the throttle cable bracket he made)

This guy in the h2b thread (i forgot his name) said he got his IM from JUN and they supplied all the adapter plates. Check out that adapter screw/bolt that they use to plug the 2screw IATs into the weird M12-1.25 plug hole.

You can contact Rosko via PM :thumbup:
http://honda-tech.com/zerouser?cmd=viewprofile&id=999374673

[b]Special thanks:[/b]
Rosko - CONTACT THIS GUY, HES GOT EVERYTHING YOU NEED!!!!
JDogg
Turbogixxer
2Point6
SoccerKing3000 (you were going to help me spend $115 in extending my fuel hose for the f20b RHD fuel rail, i ended up just buying a h22 fuel rail for $15, but thanks anyways!!!!!)
Ryu (i totally stole your pics from page 127 in the h2b faq :P)

D-series gear ratio tooth count:

Tue, 15 May 2007 14:43:38 GMT

I had this all nicely spaced out with tabbed seperated values, but html likes to screw it up, i'll fix this later

1st gear:
3.250 39/12 all

2nd gear:
1.650 33/20 hf/std (88-91)
1.762 37/21 cx/dx/lx/vx (92-95)
1.782 41/23 cx/dx/lx/hx (96-00)
1.894 36/19 dx/si (88-91)
1.900 38/20 ex/si (92-95)
1.909 42/22 ex/sol si (96-00)
1.944 35/18 dohc zc (88-91)

3rd gear:
1.033 31/30 hf/std (88-91)
1.066 32/30 cx/vx (92-95)
1.172 34/29 dx/lx/hx (92-00) *also in 96-00 cx
1.250 35/28 ex/si (92-00)
1.259 34/27 dx/si (88-91)
1.346 35/26 dohc zc (88-91)
1.565 36/23 mfactory (aftermarket)

4th gear:
0.823 28/34 hf/std (88-91)
0.853 29/34 cx/vx (92-95)
0.909 30/33 dx/lx/hx/ex/si (92-95) *also in 96-00 cx
0.937 30/32 dx/si (88-91)
1.033 31/30 dohc zc (88-91) *can also be a flipped hf/std 3rd gear
1.066 32/30 cx/vx (92-95) *not really a 4th gear, but it can be used as 4th

5th gear:
0.694 36/25 hf (88-91)
0.702 37/26 all non si (92-00)
0.750 36/27 sol si (93-95)
0.771 35/27 dx/si (88-91)
0.878 29/33 dohc zc (88-91)
1.000 29/29 mfactory (aftermarket)

Final drives (cable = 88-91, hydro = 92-00):
2.954 65/22 some HFs (88-91)
3.250 65/20 cx/vx/HF (88-95) cable form in some HFs, hydro from in 92-95 cx/vx
3.722 67/18 hx/cx*/dx* (88, 96-00) found in 1988 dx, hx, 96-00 hatchback
3.888 70/18 dx/std/zc (88-91) 89-91 dx, 4spd std, zc
4.058 69/17 dx/lx/ex? (88-00) found in all hydro dx/lx, cable form in 88-91 ex sedan?
4.250 68/16 ex/si (88-00) found in all d-series si's, and hydro EX's
4.437 71/16 zxi/aerodeck (88-00**) found in cable zxi, believed to exist in hydro from in euro aerodeck wagon
4.533 68/15 mfactory aftermarket
4.733 71/15 mfactory aftermarket
4.928 69/14 mfactory aftermarket

3.25
1.9
1.47
1.172
0.9

Anticipation for car parts in the mail

Thu, 08 Feb 2007 15:55:32 GMT

I need to stop getting so excited about looking at these parts that come in the mail. Car parts although are very exciting when they're in you car, are 90% of the time boring to look at. For example, when I got my first 4.928 final drive. I was SO excited. I was like OMG OMG OMG OMG HERE IT IS!!!! But then I opened it, and yep, it was a 4.928 final drive. There's not much to do with it outside of your car. For example, you can count the teeth, or take a picture of it while it's next to something cool looking. Woohoo! 69 teeth on the ring gear, 14 teeth on the countershaft. Those liars, it's not really 4.928, it's 4.9285714285714285714285714285714

Or how about a Quaife LSD. Yeah, this piece is definitely the most expensive block of metal ever. I saved up for that thing forever. I tracked it via UPS for a week while it made it's journey via UPS ground. I rushed home for a quick lunch break that day, opened up my quaife labeled box, and there it was, another block of metal that I spent a lot of money on. Woohoo! Things you can do with a quaife while not in your car include: Looking at it, screwing the bolts into it and back out of it, taking pictures of it, and set it next to something neat looking. And that's about it. I started to wonder what was crazier. Quaife for developing a product that costs so much money? Or the fact that I am paying for it, and I'm super excited about it. I'll leave you to decide that one.

Then there's an intake manifold. Woowee, definitely not much to do with this thing. Although I am still pretty stumped at how they make them. But nevertheless, it's just a chunk of aluminum. Things to do with an intake manifold is, leave it around for your friends to admire (they won't). Polish it (it will take FOREVER and it's not worth it), look at it, take pictures of it, set it next to something cool and take pictures of it, test out the threads with screws (whaddyaknow, they screw in!) Also, I almost forgot, it's great fun when you let your friends yell out engine noises while blowing into the TB inlet. H-I-L-A-R-I-O-U-S

AHHAHahaha, and then there's the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate. Yep, here we go again. Look at it, take pictures of it, lay it next to something cool and take pictures of it, ask yourself why you realllllllllly need all this stuff.

X engine / Y trans adapter plates. Although they're very useful in what they do, they are definitely not made to look very cool. I was way too excited about this thing. It came in the mail, I furiously opened the box. I had the expression of a kid about to open his big gift on christmas morning. I opened the box, and there it was. My excitement immediately stopped. Yep, another piece of metal. This one was blue though, which was kinda cool. And it was made of aluminum. I layed it on the table and took a picture of it. After I was done admiring how it looked (20 seconds later) I took one quick picture, wrapped it back up, placed it in it's corresponding box and placed it with the rest of the other boxes in my closet. There it was with it's family of greatness.

On the other hand, Sony PSPs are very exciting, hacked PSPs are even more exciting. I got one of these gems recently. And yeah, I got all the hacked software loaded on my PSP (cause I'm cool) These things are definitely the coolest things since sliced bread. I hate that simile by the way, anyways, this PSP of mine is definitely going to slow my car project down. I have all these sweet applications for it, and more illegally downloaded games for it than I can think of (which I of course own original legit versions of all of and these files that I download are never played and only used as learning/testing purposes only) Speaking of which, Sony's gaming division plans on losing 1.7 BILLION dollars this quarter. So that means that everyone that makes any amount of money at all during Q1 of 2007 (or at least manages to lose no more than 1,699,999,999.99 dollars) will offically make more than sony's gaming division.

Car parts, although they're very useful with their function, are otherwise worthless as anything else (: (EDIT: I take that back. I have yet discovered another very important and effective function of these blocks of metal. Yep, you got it. Impressing women.)

All right well brown santa woke me up early (UPS MAN) so I'm going back to sleep.

cable 4th gear as hydro 4th nonsense.

Mon, 05 Feb 2007 20:50:25 GMT

Using cable 4th gear in a hydro trans. A lot of guys are using the zc 3/4 gearset in their 92-00 trans. For the most part, this is a straight forward swap, HOWEVER. Modification IS required to the inside of the cable 4th gear to use it has a hydro 4th. If you do not do this, your 4th gear will grind horribly.

You MUST modify the zc hydro 4th gear. This is the inside of a cable 4th gear:

here is a cable 3rd gear:

The inside of a cable 3rd gear is like the inside of a hydro 4th gear. Notice the orientation of the 88-91 synchro hub in comparison to the 92-00 synchro hub. For whatever reason, honda flipped it over.

Ironically, you would think that using a hydro 3rd gear as a hydro 4th gear would require the same modification that using a cable 4th gear as a hydro 4th gear. But take a look at that slightly machine vx 3rd of 1.0666 that mista bone did for me. Using a hydro 3rd as 4th gear requires no modification***

Here's a picture that s18 from d-series.org made, thanks stephan!

*** I have also come to realize that a hydro 3rd gear is SLIGHTLY taller than 4th gear. I forget the dimensions. But what happens is when you get the transmission running, the 4th gear actually "machines" the 4/5 collar. On my trans it blued the collar from the heat. Aside from the appearance this seems to have no adverse effect. The shavings from the collar will get caught by the transmission magnet. If you'd like, you can change transfluid after 100 miles. I will try to document the height difference between these gears.

If you wanna get REAL in depth here, see below.

Mainshaft comparison

on the cable 88-91 D trans
91106-PL3-008 BEARING, NEEDLE (34X39X23) (3rd gear)
91107-PL3-018 BEARING, NEEDLE (34X39X27.5) (4th gear)
23915-PL3-010 COLLAR, DISTANCE (27X34X32X55)
91108-PL3-008 BEARING, NEEDLE (32X37X23.5) (NTN CORP. (5th gear)

hydro (92-00)
91107-PL3-018 BEARING, NEEDLE (34X39X27.5) (3rd gear) (same as cable 4th)
91106-PL3-008 BEARING, NEEDLE (34X39X23) (4th gear) (same as cable 3rd)
23915-P20-000 COLLAR, DISTANCE (27X34X32X50.4)
91108-PL3-008 BEARING, NEEDLE (32X37X23.5) (NTN CORP.) (5th gear) (same as cable 5th)

the hydro has a distance collar of 4.6mm longer
needle bearing for 4th gear on hydro is 4.5mm shorter

hydro 3rd needle bearing is same as cable 4th
cable 3rd needle bearing is same as hydro 4th

The dimensions in the honda parts catalog tell us most of the difference in the mainshaft. However, there is a difference in 2nd gear. On the hydro trans, 2nd gear is 2mm "taller" than on the cable trans.

Countershaft comparison

hydro
91104-P20-008 BEARING, NEEDLE (36X41X25.5) (1st gear)
23421-P20-A00 GEAR, COUNTERSHAFT LOW (1st gear)
23912-P20-010 COLLAR, DISTANCE (33X39X32) (2nd gear)
91105-P20-008 BEARING, NEEDLE (39X44X27) (2nd gear)

cable
91104-PL3-018 BEARING, NEEDLE (36X41X24) (1st gear)
23421-PL3-010 GEAR, COUNTERSHAFT LOW (1st gear)
23912-PL3-000 COLLAR, DISTANCE (33X39X30) (2nd gear)
91105-PL3-018 BEARING, NEEDLE (39X44X25) (2nd gear)

hydro 1st needle bearing is 1.5mm taller
hydro 2nd distance collar is 2mm taller than cable
hydro 2nd needle bearing is 2mm taller than cable

And that's not even touching the differences in the fork assemblies. I haven't had time to measure the difference. After I get everything else complete on my car I then plan on going back on experimenting with the cable guts in the hydro trans.

But nevertheless if you wanna figure it out, then here's the part numbers for the fork assemblies to give you a good idea of the differences.

Hydro z6
##############################
24261-P20-000 SHAFT, SHIFT FORK (1-2)
24220-P20-010 FORK, SHIFT (1-2)

24210-P20-A00 FORK, GEARSHIFT (3-4)

24200-PL3-010 FORK, FIFTH GEARSHIFT
24271-P20-000 SHAFT, SHIFT FORK (5-R)

24243-P20-000 PIECE, FIFTH & REVERSE SHIFT

##############################
Cable a6
##############################
24220-PL3-601 FORK, GEARSHIFT (1-2)
24261-PL3-010 SHAFT, SHIFT FORK (1-2)
24261-PL3-600 SHAFT, SHIFT FORK (1-2)

24210-PL3-601 FORK, GEARSHIFT (3-4)

24200-PL3-010 FORK, FIFTH GEARSHIFT
24271-PL3-010 SHAFT, SHIFT FORK (5-R)

24243-PL3-010 PIECE, FIFTH & REVERSE SHIFT

I believe that's all for today. I'm about to really start cracking down on my F/H2D swap. Although it's an F20B it's technically an F series, but it's more like an H22 because of the DOHC VTEC head.

Another thing that I've been thinking about, creating a build thread on honda-tech or some site to document my build. Well I'm not really just working on the f/h2d swap. I'm working on a lot of other things. I don't have a build thread, because there's too much to put in a thread. My last d16b5 project thread got way out of hand and grew to be 34 pages (25 posts per page) over 825 posts in that thread.

This journal is like my build thread, although I don't have a particular build that I am working on. I am a builder, a grown up lego lover that's fascinated in how things work. I'm not a "transmission guy" I'm not a F/H2D swap guy. I'm just into this stuff and I'm along for the +ride+ wherever it takes me. If it's building transmissions, then so be it. If it's fabricating exhaust systems/mainfolds/mounts/etc then so be it. If it's building engines, oh well. If it's writing fuel/igniton maps, whatever it takes to +fuel+ my passion.

WORD

So I ain't buggin or delirious
My swift tongue's like a sword, that's how severe it is
And I can slice and dice a Fisher Price MC
that thought he was nice into Minute Rice
Single-handed, I ain't with that band stuff
Cause Cee'll scratch a record like flakes of dandruff
And the mic I ravage, not like a savage
but in my own way of doin damage
As I design the genuine line
Now whose flattop rules in eighty-nine?
-Big Daddy Kane - Warm It Up Kane

And as always, correct me if I'm wrong, I want nothing more than to have correct and accurate information posted up here. It's nothing personal.

dayco 3-rib automotive accessory belts

Mon, 29 Jan 2007 06:38:39 GMT

Just a quick google search and I've extracted some part numbers for 3-ribbed dayco belts. Honda d-series alternator belts use 3-ribs. In relocating the alternator I've got a nice selection to choose from. Also, I've considered a way of still keeping power steering if I setup a serpentine belt system. But I'll probably just use an electric power steering pump later on. H2D madness!

DAYCO 5030195 Effective Length 19.50" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030220 Effective Length 22.05" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030240 Effective Length 24.02" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030243 Effective Length 24.25" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030250 Effective Length 25.00" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030260 Effective Length 26.00" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030280 Effective Length 28.00" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030290 Effective Length 29.00" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030295 Effective Length 29.53" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030300 Effective Length 30.00" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030310 Effective Length 31.00" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030323 Effective Length 32.28" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030325 Effective Length 32.50" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030335 Effective Length 33.50" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030350 Effective Length 35.04" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030365 Effective Length 36.50" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030385 Effective Length 38.58" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030390 Effective Length 39.00" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030400 Effective Length 40.00" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030415 Effective Length 41.54" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030425 Effective Length 42.52" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030440 Effective Length 44.09" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3
DAYCO 5030455 Effective Length 45.50" / Top Width .40" / Number of Ribs 3

F2D F22 build idea

Sat, 25 Nov 2006 21:05:51 GMT

F22a buildup Idea

Take the 90-93 f22 accord engine. These can be found for so insanely cheap that it's ridicilious.

SOHC F-series Advantages:
They share the same counterclockwise rotation as other honda transmissions D/B/H
Huge bore (85mm stock)
Iron sleeves
Huge ports according to Bisi
lightweight head compared to H22 head
obd1 h22a crank fits in f22 block.
CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP. F22 longblocks are a dime a dozen
same deckheight as h22

SOHC F-Series disadvanges:
not easily mated to a lightweight chassis. (resolved by a F2D adapter plate)
stock transmission sucks (resolved by a F2D adapter plate and a good D transmission)
stock 95mm stroke prevents us from revving it high. (used 90.7mm stroke h22 FORGED cranks can be found easily)
head requires valvesprings + cam to make power (what engine doesn't?)

So lemme just throw together a mild build and price list. If you take yoru time I'm sure you can find parts for around this price.
f22 longblock $75
h22 crank/rods $100
JDM H22 type S pistons $200
piston rings $60
arp rod bolts $50
arp head studs $100
f22 cam $400
valvesprings/retainers $325
headgasket $50
timing belt $35
water pump $35
acl bearings $70
overbore $75
decent intake mani $250
bisi f2d adapter $650
------------------------------
total invested = $2475

I'm willing to bet that 230whp could come out of this setup.

now lets talk about the trans

zc trans $100 (I've bought 3 for this price)
busted si trans $20 (for the 4.25 final)
obx lsd $362
bearings/shims/seals $50 (incase any are needed, most of the time they're not)
------------------------------
total invested $532

short gears, close ratio LSD trans for $532

lets throw in a decent D clutch kit for an extra $200

Built F22 $2475
Built Close ratio lsd trans $532
new D clutch $200
---------------------------------------
total invested $3207

An estimated 230whp, close ratio LSD trans for significantly less than a used GSR non-LSD swap.

That's better gearing, an LSD, and an extra 50whp.

Now don't even say it, with this SOHC nonVTEC engine being optimized for high-RPM power, you wouldn't have much "low end power." This doesn't matter, because the 2.2 liter engine with "less low end" will more than likely have more low end power than a stock d16a6.

engine specs
SOHC NON VTEC F22a (2157cc) (2.2 liters)
11.6:1 cr
90.7mm stroke
87mm bore
143mm rod
rod/stroke ratio 1.58 (equivalent to GSR/ITR)

trans ratios
1st = 3.250
2nd = 1.944
3rd = 1.346
4th = 1.033
5th = 0.878
final = 4.25

Hybrid Trans I've built / Hybrid Trans Ideas

Sat, 11 Nov 2006 01:28:16 GMT

Yes, I know. All of my non-honda friends are probably sick of me posting this stuff. But I always get asked "what do you suggest for my setup?" Now instead of taking the time to explain, I can just point people to this link (:

A few transmissions I've built. All trans calc'd with a 7500rev limit and 205/50/15s
###############################################################
1st trans:
1st = 3.250
2nd = 1.900
3rd = 1.346
4th = 1.033
5th = 0.750
FNL = 4.250

92-95 d16z6 1st and 2nd. jdm dohc zc 3rd, crx hf 3rd as 4th. d16z6 si 5th gear, d16z6 final drive.

gears end at following mph
1st = 37.28
2nd = 63.77
3rd = 90.02
4th = 117.30
5th = 161.55

70mph in 5th = ~3250rpm
80mph in 5th = ~3700rpm

Driving Impressions: A great all-around transmission. This is what the stock ex transmission should have been.
I later sold this to a racing team in california that was competing in the honda challenge. Buyer also bought my
0.878 zc 5th gear and advised that he was going to be getting a 4.73 final drive for it.

###############################################################
###############################################################

Second Trans I've built is for Chris "Batman" Bateman in California. This was my original idea for my "ultimate" transmission, but I later decided to go another route as I anticipated a future boost build :)

Batman Trans:
1st = 3.250
2nd = 1.909
3rd = 1.346
4th = 1.066
5th = 0.771
FNL = 4.928

96-00 d16y8 1st and 2nd. jdm dohc zc 3rd, 92-95 d15z1/d15b8 3rd as 4th. 88-91 civic dx/si 5th gear, mfactory 4.928 final

gears end at following mph
1st = 32.15
2nd = 54.74
3rd = 77.63
4th = 98.03
5th = 135.53

70mph in 5th = ~3900rpm
80mph in 5th = ~4450rpm

Driving impressions: Although I will probably never experience this setup first hand, I know how it will be.
This is an ideal all motor d-series trans. Owner can step down to say a 22" slick and as he builds his all motor
d-series, his rev-limit will increase. The idea is to barely top out 4th gear in the 1/4th Well Batman will be at
exactly 100mph @ 8000rpm in 4th gear with 22" slicks. This gives him some room to grow and he can fine
tune his gearing with slick size. Depending on how much power his D engine puts down, he'll then chose slick
size accordingly.
###############################################################
###############################################################

The next trans I've built is the "Bense" trans. I call it this because I'm the first person to test out these
mfactory 3/5 gears :P

Bense Trans:
1st = 3.250
2nd = 1.909
3rd = 1.565
4th = 1.259
5th = 1.000
FNL = 4.250 *see below

96-00 d16y8 1st and 2nd. MFactory 3rd, 88-91 civic dx/si 3rd as 4th. MFactory 5th.

gears end at following mph
1st = 37.28
2nd = 63.47
3rd = 77.42
4th = 96.24
5th = 121.17

70mph in 5th = ~4350rpm
80mph in 5th = ~4950rpm

Driving impressions: I love it. It's unbelievable. Everyone laughs at my third gear because it is insanely short. Take an ex 3rd gear, move it to the location of 4th gear, and get a custom gear to go right between stock ex
2nd and 3rd. 5th is insane on the highway, but I don't care. With my drive to spartanburg I got 28mpg. I took the trans off to change some stuff with it and put a stock d16y8 trans on. Gas mileage was so close I couldn't tell a difference. The thing I like about this setup is that I can easily put in any stock final drive in, much like the quaife B16 kit and change my gearing. For boost I could put a DX final of 4.058 in it :)
###############################################################
###############################################################

Next trans that I am contemplating building now that Mista Bone and I have figured out how to run a cable final drive. I call this trans the holy grail oem trans. Because it is pretty much the best you'll ever get with
strictly oem parts.

Holy Grail OEM Trans:
1st = 3.250
2nd = 1.909
3rd = 1.346
4th = 1.066
5th = 0.878
FNL = 4.4375

d16y8 1st and 2nd, jdm dohc zc 3rd, d15z1/d15b8 3rd gear as 4th, zc 5th, jdm zxi final drive.

gears end at following mph
1st = 35.71
2nd = 60.79
3rd = 86.22
4th = 108.86
5th = 132.17

70mph in 5th = ~4000rpm
80mph in 5th = ~4550rpm

Driving impressions: Don't know yet :) 2nd gear is shorter than my "Bense Trans" which might be more ideal
for a lower speed autocross track.
###############################################################
###############################################################
And last but not least, the SCHardbody Trans. I build this trans for my buddy Lee.

SCHardbody Trans:
1st = 3.250
2nd = 1.762
3rd = 1.250
4th = 1.033
5th = 0.702
FNL = 4.250

He started off with a d15z1 trans and we placed an ex final drive in it, ex 3rd gear, and a hf 3rd gear as 4th.

gears end at following mph
1st = 37.28
2nd = 68.77
3rd = 96.93
4th = 117.30
5th = 172.60

70mph in 5th = ~3050rpm
80mph in 5th = ~3450rpm

Driving impressions: First thing I'm going to say is that this trans isn't "perfect" There are better gearing options available. This is a complete budget setup with parts that I had left over. The only thing is we had to
spend $25 for the hf 3rd gear as 4th. Lee had a d15z1 trans which is insanely long gearing. Anything is better than stock cx/vx gearing. Anything. So rather than getting ahead of ourselves and spending too much money on gearing, I came up with this cheap setup. It's better than a stock ex trans from a roll, because the taller 2nd gear takes him further into the shorter ex 3rd. The shorter 4th gear also helps out. If I were to make one
change to this trans I would have thrown in a 88-91 civic dx/si 5th gear of 0.771 in it to help out with the gap from 4th to 5th. But who cares, it's not like lee will need to be accelerating past 117.3 mph :)
###############################################################
###############################################################
There's also the trans that I built for Patrick (thehatchninja) This is a "classic" setup.

Civic ZC/Si hybrid
1st = 3.250
2nd = 1.944
3rd = 1.346
4th = 1.033
5th = 0.771
FNL = 4.250

ZC 1-5 gears are short with a tall final drive. Si 1-5 gears are long with a short final drive. We left the taller
Si 5th in for less highway rpms.

gears end at following mph
1st = 37.28
2nd = 62.33
3rd = 90.02
4th = 117.30
5th = 157.15

70mph in 5th = 3350rpm
80mph in 5th = 3800rpm

Driving Impressions: Read about my 1st hybrid for further details, the setup is very similiar. I sometimes
wonder if the honda engineers intentionally gave that zc transmission those shorter 1-5 gears to "sneak" the
mass production of "performance" gears and just gave it the taller dx final drive so that the trans seemed
normal. Those DOHC ZC transmissions are great to scoop up to improve acceleration :)
###############################################################

mc-redroot

Thu, 09 Nov 2006 16:12:26 GMT

If you use mc (midnight commander) for a while, you may get sick of not knowing if you're running it as root or not. I recall way back in the day when I used redhat (several years ago), it was setup so that the color scheme of root was red. I googled around for a while and couldn't find anything except rpms. RPMs are for wusses and lesser wimps. So I extracted this from the rpm.

You can add this to the end of /root/.mc/ini

want to create your own custom scheme? use this syntax to modify the colors.

Enjoy.

[Colors]
base_color=normal=lightgrey,red:input=white,brown:errors=white,brightred:gauge=brown,black:selected=black,white:marked=yellow,red:markselect=yellow,white:directory=white,red:executable=brightgreen,red:link=lightgray,red:device=brightmagenta,red:special=brightmagenta,red:core=brightred,red:menu=black,white:menuhot=yellow,white:menuhotsel=brightred,black:dnormal=black,white:dfocus=white,lightgray:dhotnormal=yellow,white:dhotfocus=brightred,lightgray:editnormal=lightgray,black:editmarked=yellow,white

Gearing Up for the Future

Sat, 23 Sep 2006 20:22:32 GMT

As of right now, I am running a y8 mainshaft (1-2) with mfactory 3/5 gears with a cable dx/si 3rd as my 4th with a y8 final drive.

1st - 3.250
2nd - 1.909
3rd - 1.565
4th - 1.259
5th - 1.000
fin - 4.250

I will be doing a boost build sometime next year; when the engine is removed. I will change to a dx/lx final of 4.058 to increase my top speed. However, in doing this I will try to switch to a zc mainshaft with the ~1.8% shorter 2nd gear. It's almost not even worth the time to swap 2nd gears. However since I already have the parts to do so, I will attempt it. I have heard that Bisi has done this using two 3mm shims on each shaft. Also, out of nowhere, an Aaron Hillman emailed me saying that he is sucessfully running ALL of his cable D guts in his hydro transmission. He said that he's using the cable fork assembly with the cable mainshaft and countershaft with two shims. One directly under the mainshaft ball bearing, with the other directly below both of the countershaft bearings.

Doing this will open up a few extra doors...
The 88-91 cable transmission has a few more gearing options that weren't available for the 92-00 hydraulic transmissions. Below listed is the unique cable components that aren't EASILY swappable.
2.95 final drive (crx hf)
3.88 final drive (dx and zc)
4.43 final drive (integra zxi)

1.650 2nd gear (crx hf)
1.894 2nd gear (dx/si)
1.944 2nd gear (dohc zc)

Main thing to note is the 3.888 final and the 4.4375

in doing this I am going to build the absolute shortest ratio D trans that can possibly be made with all OEM parts.
1st = 3.250
2nd = 1.944
3rd = 1.346
4th = 1.066
5th = 0.878
fnl = 4.437

1st -> 2nd = 0.598
2nd -> 3rd = 0.692
3rd -> 4th = 0.792
4th -> 5th = 0.824

Please note. Although there is the option of using the dx 1.172 3rd as a 4th gear. This is more 'geared' heh, for quarter mile acceleration whereas this transmission is more optimized for 'road racing.'

It's kind of odd. I don't really have a need for this transmission. I don't know why I feel so inclined to build it. I might keep it for a while, but I will probably end up selling it.

Aside from that nonsense. I have been doing some further calculating. I decided to take a break from buying crappy busted D transmissions to elevate myself to pimp status with my new calculator.

you all will be pleased to know that all of the calculations on this page have been done withing nothing other than a Casio DBC610.

In my close ratio transmission with a near 80% drop in all gears, the 1st to 2nd shift is still the same as it was from the factory :( This is ultra annoying. The solution would be to have a taller 1st gear that brought me further into 2nd gear once I shift. With observing the rpm drops of the aftermarket close ratio gears, they all seem to shoot for the same 18%-22% reduction in rpms as gears increase. This 'ideal' number is the same for pretty much all the 2-3-4-5 gears. However, most of the close ratio kits that come with a closer 1-2 all seem to have about a 30% drop from 1st to 2nd. This is because the gearing is so high in first gear, that the ratio of rpm per 1mph (like 25.0 to 25.9999999999) is much greater than it is for say 5th gear. Basically, a 20% drop from 1st to 2nd would feel "too close."

So that leaves me to the next step. Since I would be using a 1.944 2nd gear from the older jdm trans, I take 1.944 and divided by 0.7 (1 - 0.3 = 0.7 0.3 coming from 30%) and it leaves me with 2.7771, So I figure 2.75 will do fine. Also, a 2.75 ratio can be made with (33/12) which I know would be possible tooth count because that's close to what honda chose (3.25 = 39/12)

So this would leave me with the following ratios
1st - 2.750
2nd - 1.944
3rd - 1.565
4th - 1.259
5th - 1.000
final - 2.954, 3.25, 3.722, 3.888, 4.058, 4.25, 4.4375

That's right. By slightly shimming the cable countershaft, I would be able to run any of the additional ratios that are cable exclusive (2.954, 3.888, 4.4375) That leaves me to the next step. The holy grail of honda transaxles would definitely be the new japan model of the new (dc5) integra type R. This transmission is a 6speed and it can only be fitted to the k-series engines. K-series is what ever honduh riceboy dreams about, so naturally the cost of one of these drivetrains is through the roof. It is considered ideal to put one of these powerplants with the sacred 6speed close-ratio LSD transmissions in an older civic (1988-2000) due to the significant weight difference. (these old civics are very LIGHTWEIGHT compared to the newer ones). In doing this, these civics have an smaller overall tire diameter than the newer civics/integras, so you gain a gearing advantage as well as a weight advantage. And while you're at it, you might as well upgrade your final drive to the OEM, off the shelf japanese final drive of 5.062 that is found in the JDM CRV. In changing to this final drive, as well as changing the chassis of the drivetrain. It is considered to be the absolute most ideal setup ever in my opinion. Chad who dominates on the roadcourses in his K-swapped 2000 civic is running this setup. I spoke with him and he practically swears by these gears. Here are the ratios below.

jdm k20a ideal trans
1st - 3.266
2nd - 2.130
3rd - 1.517
4th - 1.212
5th - 0.972
6th - 0.78 (dc5 itr)
alt fin - 5.062

In doing this, I'm going to multipy each gear by the final drive ratio to get the overall gearing reductions
1st = 3.266 * 5.062 = 16.532492
2nd = 2.130 * 5.062 = 10.78206
3rd = 1.517 * 5.062 = 7.679054
4th = 1.212 * 5.062 = 6.135144
5th = 0.972 * 5.062 = 4.920264
6th = 0.780 * 5.062 = 3.94836

if you look at the first gear ratio, 16.53 it's a very high number. With the numerically higher final drive and the smaller diameter tires, 1st gear almost becomes useless because it's so short. I think back about the 92-95 civic cx and vx transmission, it uses a 3.25 first gear as well as a 3.25 final drive. Multiply the two and we get (3.25 * 3.25 = 10.5625) If you compare this number to the 10.78206 that's found for the above "ideal" transmission's 2nd gear, you will see that ideal transmission's 2nd gear is actually in fact shorter (numerically higher) than the 1st gear on the cx/vx transmission! Considering that the cx and the vx both had less than 100hp (cx at 70 and vx at 92) I consider that the ideal transmission's 2nd gear can be used as 1st. Also, I have heard about a few race teams playing with the new 2006 civic si on the drag strip. They conclude that they were significantly faster when they started off in 2nd gear instead of 1st. And this is with taller tires and a longer (numerically lower) 4.764 final drive! So with that concrete proof, I say that in the modified 'holy grail ideal' transmission, 1st gear is rendered useless 90% of the time. So the extra gear in the 6speed isn't actually worth it. It's just that in the 5speeds, 1st gear is too short.

In comparing my custom gear ratios for my 5speed transmission, along with the custom 2.75:1 first gear. I figured that with a taller 3.888 final drive from the 1989-1991 cable dx transmissions that could be used (with my countershaft shimming modification) in a newer 1992-2000 hydraulic "D" transmission. Ah, nothing like "off the shelf" cheap, readily available final drives. Anyways, with the taller 1st gear, a "taller" (numerically lower) final drive of 3.88 would work well. I then compared the ratios...Here's the overall gear ratio after multiplying the final gear by each individual gear.

Bense's custom D trans VS holy grail 2-6 gears
1st = 2.750 * 3.888 = (10.692) (10.78206)
2nd = 1.944 * 3.888 = (7.558272) (7.679054)
3rd = 1.565 * 3.888 = (6.08472) (6.135144)
4th = 1.259 * 3.888 = (4.894992) (4.920264)
5th = 1.000 * 3.888 = (3.888) (3.94836)

The numbers are so similar here. infact, I think mine might actually be a little bit better!

Link to the fatboyraceworks page with ratios plugged in
1st gear is entered twice for easier overlay comparison.

remember, we have 2.954, 3.722, 3.888, 4.058, 4.25, 4.437 OEM final drives available
as well as aftermarket 4.53, 4.73, 4.928 to use from.

muahahahha (:

I have been looking around. However nobody has made such a piece. I have tried Mfactory, ATS, Gearspeed, Jamie @houseman. Which btw jamie SUCKS at replying to emails. I've yet to get a response. "Another company" actually advised against going with Jamie because he had such poor customer service. On the flipside. I'm sure that he's just a middleman. I figure that he takes the components measures them, and sends them to the facility where they can properly machine the unit to his specs. So I figure, well if nobody else is gonna do it, who's to say that I can't? Oh well, I'd rather do it myself. Good thing I'm back in school this semester. I can't wait to get out of this boring crap and into the more technical stuff that is more "geared" :P towards me. I guess I could say that it's something that I want to accomplish one day. Learn how to calculate the measurments and send stuff off to the machine shop to have them create it and then put it to good use. Everyones gotta aspire towards something; I guess this is my calling.

Now that I've said that I want to tell you about the OTHER idea that I've been thinking about.. Just kidding. I'll save that for another day ;)

Everything that you ever wanted to know about the d16b5 (98-00 civic gx engine)

Sat, 23 Sep 2006 20:21:05 GMT

I'm typing 95% of this from memory, so get off me if there's a few things wrong

The engine is most closely related to the civic HX engine (d16y5) It is a vtec-e engine.

Bore = 75mm
Stroke = 90mm
Rod Length = 137mm
R/S Ratio = 1.52
Compression Ratio = 12.5 (reason being that CNG is a fuel that is in gas form (not liquid) it doesn't mix very well with atmospheric air. So Honda raised compression to promote a better mixture.)

The engine code for the d16b5 is PDN

Everything is identical to the d16y5 except a few minor differences:
different pistons and rods
different valves
different cam

d16y5/d16b5 uses the same exhaust springs as a d16y8
d16y5/d16b5/d16y8 all use the same retainers

d16b5 has different exhaust valve springs than the d16y5
d16b5 has different intake and exhaust valves than the d16y5

99 gx uses the same intake manifold gasket as a 97 hx
99 gx intake manifold = 17100-PDN-A00 UNIQUE
99 gx spark plugs = 98079-5787T UNIQUE and they're $12.57 a piece!
99 ex spark plugs = 98079-5514G

99 gx uses the same spark plug wires as the 99 ex

the block assembly (sans pistons/rods) for the d16y8/d16y5 and d16b5 are identical.

piston dome on pdn pistons = 4.63cc (this was calculated using basic algebra 12.5, 32.8cc, y8 headgasket. etc.
combustion chamber volume = 32.8cc (same as d16y5/d16y8)

In 99, honda introduced air injection on the civic gasoline powered civics. Considering that the civic gx runs off of CNG, air injection is no option for the 99 GX. Which is why it shares the 96-98 intake manifold gasket as the d16y5 hx engine.

bare head assembly on the d16y5/d16y8 and d16b5 is identical. (SAME SIZED PORTS)
12100-P2M-010 = 98 hx cylinder head assembly
12100-P2M-010 = 98 ex cylinder head assembly
12100-PDN-A00 = 99 gx cylinder head assembly
12100-PDN-A00 = 98 gx cylinder head assembly

hx/gx rocker assembly

d16b5 pdn piston

d16b5 combustion chamber

d16b5 connecting rod

comparing the gx intake manifold to the ex intake manifold (gx on right in all pics)

d16b5 valve train

excerpt from honda service manual about vtec-e

d16b5 intake manifold (assembled)

d16b5 with oil pan off

d16y8 = 96-00 civic ex sohc vtec engine
d16y5 = 96-00 civic hx sohc vtec-e engine
d16b5 = 96-00 civic gx sohc vtec-e engine

#######################
01/19/2006:
I am growing tired of the d16y5 questions that I am seeing arise on honda-tech. So this will be the last time I will try to explain.

If you have a d16y5, it is basically a d16y8. The MAIN difference is the cam + rockers. Swapping from a d16y5 to a d16y8 is more hassle than it's worth. If I wanted more power out of my d16y5, here's what I'd do. Block modifications are going to be identical to the d16y8, so I will not bother covering this. If you boost, use arp head studs, blah blah blah. I'm not here to cover the obvious.

I would mail crower my cam for a regrind, crower has already said that they can do a regrind of this cam. I would then put a d16y8 intake manifold on it to get rid of the egr. I say d16y8 intake manifold because you can find a bare one for like $50 and all your sensors will bolt up to it. Or just keep your y5 intake manifold, it doesn't matter that much. Or get the skunk2 or edelbrock one. you won't be able to find an obd1 equivalent ecu, so don't even bother trying to find it. Nor will you be able to pull the maps off the d16y5 ecu.

Your best bet is going to be to build the head (same as y8 style) and send your cam to crower to get a regrind. You will need a custom tune to do this. So find a tuner that is very experienced with tuning d16y8s. Again, it is basically a y8, just slightly different. Have VTEC engage at like 2800-3000.

gearing modifications explained again

Sat, 23 Sep 2006 20:14:26 GMT

The advantages of close-ratio gears with a numerically lower final drive VS factory gears, with a numerically higher final drive.

I am creating this thread as kind of a sister thread to my d16y5/d16b5 vtec-e project page. Which can be found here: http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1414454&page=10

I am only going to calculate one transmission here, because all I am really trying to do is explain the difference between the two and show YOU advantages and disadvantages of each.

A lot of the stuff that I will say in here, you might not understand if you haven't read my transmission page where I have answered every question that I have ever thought of regarding gearing and transmissions and torque/horsepower, etc. In case you have missed my page and are interested in reading it, it can be found here: http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1486769

The example transmission that I am going to use for all the calculations and demonstrations is a 92-95 d16z6 transmission. This is the ex transmission with a fifth gear of 0.702. Not to be confused with the Si transmission in the 92-95 hatchback si and the del sol si with a 0.750 fifth gear.

All of my calculations are going to have:
A redline at 7500.
A wheel diameter of 23" Because 205/50/15s come out to be 23.07 and I am just going to keep it simple and use 23 inches.

Stock gear ratios for this transmission are as follows:

1st = 3.250
2nd = 1.900
3rd = 1.250
4th = 0.909
5th = 0.702
FINAL = 4.25

I am now going to calculate the rpm drops of this transmission. If you take notice, all I am really doing is taking the next gear that I am shifting into, and dividing it by the gear that I am shifting out of. (2nd gear divided by 1st gear) or (3rd gear divided by 2nd gear) etc.

1.900 / 3.250 = 0.584
1.250 / 1.900 = 0.657
0.909 / 1.250 = 0.727
0.702 / 0.909 = 0.772
note: decimals have been truncated after 1/1000th

So what does this mean? Well 1st into 2nd shift for example. As you can see above that 0.584 is actually 58.4% So if one were to take 1st gear up to redline (7500) and then shifted into 2nd gear, our rpms would fall 58.4% To calculate, all we do is multipy 0.584 times 7500. Which we get 4380. Now, realize that it is a percentage and not a set number of rpm. So this means that revving to 7500 and then shift, rpms fall 3120 rpm (7500-4380 = 3120) However, if one were to rev to 10,000, revs would fall to ~5840 (that's a 4160 rpm drop) See how that rpm drop increases as we rev higher? That's because the gear ratios are taking the percentage when we shift gears. Basically, the higher the redline is, the closer that the gears need to be to each other.

Another thing, if you take note, all those calculations above had nothing to do with the final drive ratio. All the final drive ratio (or axle ratio) dictates is how engine rpms relate to wheel rpms (or miles/kilometers per hour) So in reality, when we are in 1st gear, we are in the 1st gear ratio, and the final drive ratio. To get this ratio, we simply multiply the 1st gear ratio by the final drive ratio. In this case, 3.25 * 4.25 = 13.8125 13.8125:1 Yes, that's right. It's a torque multiplier. So if you have 100hp which is like a stock d15. When you rev to 5500 rpm and dump the clutch, you are dumping 100hp * 13.8125 to the wheels! Yeah that's right, your stock d15 with a ex tranny can dump 1381.25 hp to the wheels! This is the reason that nearly any manual transmission car no matter how weak the engine is can roast em'! when you dump the clutch.

Anyways. So here's the deal. I want to see what mph my gears end at, so when I am cruising on the interstate and mr cavalier rolls up wanting to race. Now obviously, one would want to be in the lowest gear possible (like 3rd) So that they will be faster. But we don't want to downshift if it will put or engine at 12,000 rpm and then mr. cavalier will be laughing at us when we're pulling over into the break down lane. So I am now going to calculate what speed we will be at with our transmission/rpm/wheels. Yes, I know the formula for the calculations, but there's point in manually doing it, when we have computer programs to do it for us. Especially when they are embedded in convienent webpages such as this! http://www.f-body.org/gears/ Yes it's a f-body side for domestic v8s, but it still works because our final drive ratio is the same as their axle ratio.

The gears end at the following mph with the setup listed above. These number are rounded to whole numbers, so they're not accure to the 0.0001 but that's okay, so chill =)

1st = 37
2nd = 64
3rd = 97
4th = 133
5th = 172 (yes, I know that our civics can't go 172mph, but if it could, our 5th gear would prevent us from going past 172mph)

Okay, now so you know, if you haven't read my tranny page (link above and in my sig) I explain that our hondas make power in the high rpms (just before redline) So in a perfect world we would be at peak horsepower at all speeds. This is now somewhat possible with CVT transmissions. But these transmissions are very knew, and the designs are still sucky to where I wouldn't want one in a high powered car. Not to mention that they don't take a beating like our manual transmissions. Anyways...

Now, I am just going to say that we'll be trapping at 100mph in the 1/4th. I realize a stock d16z6 won't break 100mph in the 1/4th, but it's a nice round number for this example So look what happens with this setup. We get to 64 mph, and shift into 3rd. We'll take 3rd all the way up to 97mph, and then have to shift into 4th. We will use 4th to carry us from 97 to 100mph. This is very ineffecient because we will lose time while shifting into 4th.

Look at this graph that I have plotted and you can visually see the difference.

if this doesn't show up, try http://thebense.com/andrew/images/gearing.jpg

In this graph I have plotted three transmissions.

The first being the stock EX transmission. (Blue Line)
RPM DROPS
1st -> 2nd = 58.4%
2nd -> 3rd = 65.7%
3rd -> 4th = 72.7%
4th -> 5th = 77.2%

1st ends at 37mph
2nd ends at 64mph
3rd ends at 97mph
4th ends at 133mph
5th ends at 172mph

The second being the stock EX transmission with a 4.928 final drive (indicated by the red line on the graph)
RPM DROPS
1st -> 2nd = 58.4%
2nd -> 3rd = 65.7%
3rd -> 4th = 72.7%
4th -> 5th = 77.2%

1st ends at 32mph
2nd ends at 55mph
3rd ends at 83mph
4th ends at 115mph
5th ends at 148mph

As you can see, the gears still have the same rpm drop, however the mph where the gears end have dropped. This means that you will have more instances where you will be closer to the power band while accelerating.

and last, close ratio gears with the stock final drive. (Green line)
RPM DROPS
1st -> 2nd = 58.4%
2nd -> 3rd = 82.3%
3rd -> 4th = 79.8%
4th -> 5th = 80.0%

1st ends at 37mph
2nd ends at 64mph
3rd ends at 77mph
4th ends at 97mph
5th ends at 121mph

As you can see here, the gears are brought in a lot closer to each other RPM wise as well as MPH wise Also, if you take a look at the graph, you sill see that the green plot never drops below 6000 (okay, I lied, it sees 5985 rpm on a 3rd -> 4th shift from 7500rpm) But still, that keeps it much closer to the power band regardless of the final drive that one uses.

So get this. As some of you may know, I have several busted up transmissions that I have "acquired" None of them I have paid much for. Busted input shaft bearing, grinding 3rd gear, etc. People tend to donate these to me or sell them for very very cheap because who wants a busted dx transmission? Well, most people wouldn't but....

Here's where the close ratio gears shine. Because say I am road racing, and I look at a map of the track. Now I know the acceleration rate of my car, and I know that my 5th gear will end at 121mph with my 4.25 final drive. So, for smaller tracks and my "weekend warrior" I am going to be using this final drive. However say I go to a larger track, I can then use a 4.058 final drive found in a 92-00 civic DX transmission that can be found for very very cheap. I now have a top speed of 126mph. This may not matter much for most, but there's at least that option. Not only does it stop there, but also the 3.888 final drive found in 88-91 civic STDs and DXs, now my top speed is 132mph. Oh but wait, there's also a 3.722 final drive that's found in the 96-00 civic hx/cx hatchback, this brings my top speed to 138mph. And then there's the 92-95 cx/vx final drive ratio of 3.25 Which is very tall, which would bring top speed in fifth to a 158mph. A 2.95 found in the crx hf = 174mph.

Now this may not sound like anything special at first, however on a vehicle that's going at a very high speed, once you top out 4th, you need lots of power to overcome the windspeed as required power gets exponentially higher as speed increases. When shifting into 5th, this will bring the rpms closer to the powerband, allowing the vehicle to accelerate faster at the top of 5th.

Not to mention very large turbo setups where there's a very small rpm range where the engine is at full boost.

Or even since the rpm drop is tighter, the rpms fall faster from gear to gear, allowing you to shift faster without having to wait as long for the engine to slow down. This also is good for those "power shifters" because one won't be slamming the transmission because the engine won't have to drop rpm as much. Also meaning that the synchros will have to do less work.

My Honda/Acura B-series transmission write up page.

Sat, 23 Sep 2006 20:12:22 GMT

Originally written on Jan 8th, 2006. Updating this again for the nth time, 12/29/06

EDIT: 02/02/06 - I just looked at this page and thought about what it would be like looking at this page in the third person (as you guys see it) and I nearly fell out of my chair from laughing so hard, I can only imagine what you guys are muttering under your breaths "geeze this kid must have like NO FRIENDS" ahahahhahhahhah awesome
/EDIT

Bense's Hydro Honda/Acura B-series Tranny Page

I'm going to start off. You have three main (and the JDM ITR hybrid) transmissions to choose from.

Integra LS (b18b)
1st - 3.230
2nd - 1.900
3rd - 1.269
4th - 0.966
5th - 0.714
final - 4.266

Integra GSR (b18c1)
1st - 3.230
2nd - 1.900
3rd - 1.360
4th - 1.034
5th - 0.787
final - 4.400

Del Sol VTEC, 99-00 Civic Si, and other various JDM cars with b16's (b16a3, b16a2, b16a, b16b, b18c5, b18c spec R) All hydro b16s came with these ratios
Also, USDM ITRs and pre 98 JDM ITRs
1st - 3.230
2nd - 2.105
3rd - 1.458
4th - 1.107
5th - 0.848
final - 4.400

JDM ITR, 98+
1st - 3.230
2nd - 2.105
3rd - 1.458
4th - 1.034
5th - 0.787
final - 4.785

Now that you know the ratios of the available transmissions, lets start off by examing the ratios. The Integra LS has tallest final drive of 4.266 along with gears that are furthest apart. This is due to the relatively flatter torque curve of the lower-revving b18b.

The GSR tranny like the LS tranny, uses the same mainshaft (1st and 2nd gears), However it uses a 4.4 final drive, with shorter, closer-ratio 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears. Although it utilizes the same final drive as the b16, it's gears are spaced further apart due to the greater torque and less "peaky" characteristics.

Then there's the B16/USDM ITR transmission. Aside from the ITR having a LSD, these transmissions are identical ratio wise. These use the 4.4 final drive ratio, along with a unique 2nd gear. Because of the peaky powerband of the b16, they have the shortest, and closest-ratio gears of all the b-series transmissions. Yes, with 205/50/15s the highway RPMs are near 4400 at 80mph, however do to the very short stroke of the B16, this is not a problem.

And last but certainly not least is the 98+ JDM ITR transmission. This transmission is honda's hybrid transmission for their OEM FWD "track car." It uses an exclusively higher final drive ratio of 4.785 along with B16 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears. It then uses GSR 4th and 5th. It is obvious that they used the 4.785 final drive because it yielded better acceleration, however this usually decreases the theoretical top speed (and increases cruising rpms) This is why I am sure that they decided to go with the GSR 4th and 5th. Why not b16 4th and gsr 5th? Because the 3rd -> 4th RPM drop on B16 trannys is already really good, so it would be better to make the gap further here than it would be between 4th and 5th. Plus most people would rather have a longer 4th gear to prevent having to shift into 5th.

Take note, Final drives effect the mph/kmph between the gears, where as 1-5 gear ratios effect the rpms between the gear. This means that the rpm drop from 2nd -> 3rd will always be the same from 8000rpm regardless of which final drive you use. This also means that installing a JDM ITR final drive, on your stock gsr transmission, you will NOT have a closer-ratio transmission than you did before.

For people that do lots of distance driving, you may consider getting an LS 5th gear. It will lower the cruising 5th gear RPMs as well as lower the engine noise. To do this you will need the mainshaft and countershaft 5th gear from an LS. As far as I know, cable 5th gears will not work.

##########################################################################################
Now that I have covered the contents of the various honda b-series transmissions, I am now going to cover a few mathematical/physics formulas that I have found useful. Along with covering the common fallacies.

Gears do nothing but torque multiplication between the engine and the wheels. At any given time, you're using two gears to drive the car, say you're in 5th gear of 0.848 on a B16 transmission with a 4.400 axle ratio. Multipy that gear ratio by the axle ratio and you get the complete gear ratio of that gear.

0.848 * 4.400 = 3.7312

Now that is your actual gear ratio in 5th gear. That means that for every 3.7312 engine revolutions, your wheel makes one full rotation. Another thing that you may find interesting, I have been doing a lot of researching on BMW's as I planned on purchasing an e36 a while back.. After looking at the ratios I noticed that the numbers were different. Some of them use a 1.0 5th gear ratio, along with a 3.73 axle ratio, now obviously 1 times 3.73 is well, 3.73. So that means that paticular BMW's 5th gearing is nearly identical to honda's b16 gearing. This results in confusion when discussing the axle ratio modification you've run. "You're running what? A 4.785? Holy shit that's crazy!!" But in reality a 4.785 compared to a gsr 0.747 5th gear is like a 3.76 axle ratio on a BMW. Not to mention that tire diameter also effects this. Moving on...

##########################################################################################
Now before anything else is said, it is essential for you to understand what horsepower really is and where it comes from.
Horsepower is nothing but the measurement of torque and RPM. Here's the formula for horsepower

HP = (torque) * (RPM) / (5252)

With that said, lets think about a domestic V8. Yeah, they have lots of torque, but most of them can't rev over 6000. For demonstration purposes lets see how much 200ft/lbs at 4000rpm really is.

HP = (200) * (4000) / (5252)

HP = 152.32

Now 100 ft lbs at 8000 rpm.

HP = (100) * (8000) / (5252)

HP = 152.32

Notice that these HP numbers are the exact same. Naturally, the motor that only makes 100tq is going to significantly smaller in displacement. (probably about 1/2 the size) But All one would have to do is double the gear ratio and you would never know the difference! Honda makes it's power by using smaller high-revving motors. Because the redline is so high, the gearing is also numerically high and the gears are short. The B16 gears may end at the same mph as a 6000rpm redline VW for example, but if you were to give the 8000rpm honda those same ratios and wheel dimater of the VW, those gears would be "tall" So many people look at the specs of hondas B16 and they see 113ft/lbs and 1.6 liters, and they complain it doesn't have any torque! This isn't really a valid argument, mainly because these people have no concept of how gearing and torque multiplication works. Yes the b16 may have a low number of torque, but where it doesn't have torque, it has gears that are designed to keep the RPMs higher. This gives the impression of "This motor sucks so much that I have to rev the piss out of it to move" But in reality it has completely different characteristics of your typical domestic v8. I guarantee you that if you put a B16 in your civic along with a B16 transmission, and that if you were to change the 8 on your tach to a 6 and the 4 to a 3, as to trick you of how fast the motor was revolving, every oblivious person would ride in your car and think that you had an H23 "torque monster" in your car.

With that said, I want to show you this image that I have created with MathGV for windows.

In this graph, I have two lines plotted.
The red line is Y = 130. This is the theoretical torque line on a dyno plot. Again, for demonstration purposes.
The blue line is Y = (130) * (X) / (5252) This is the horsepower formula with 130ft lbs of torque.
As you can see, there is more torque than horsepower up until after 5000. Because of the formula for horsepower, no matter what you're going to have the exact same amount of torque as horsepower at 5252rpm. Because of this, if your motor's redline is 5000rpms. There is no way that you will ever have more hp than torque unless you make power beyond 5252rpms. This also means that if you continue to make power (torque) beyond 5252RPM, that no matter what, you will have more horsepower than torque. This is concrete physical mathematical proof of this. No matter what this will never change. Bottom line, if you want horsepower, you need torque and high RPMS to get it. If you want to have more torque than horsepower, you can either stop making power beyond 5252 rpms, or you can let off the gas, or get a motor that doesn't rev beyond 5252rpm. If you want a lot more horsepower than torque, you better start reving beyond 5252 rpms.

Hopefully after analyzing this graph and reading what I've said, you now understand the value of keeping those RPMs up with your honda motor. The closer you can stay to redline, the faster your car will be. This is the value of close ratio gears. What I am about to share with you is something that dawned onto my crazy ADHD self when I was watching "The Bourne Identity" one night. I have never seen this on any of the transmission pages. It seems so simple, but it is something that I have never seen anywhere. I can only hope that it's something that will be covered in one of my future mechanical engineering classes. I don't know. For the longest time I was calculating the RPM drops of various transmissions. B16, GSR, LS, BMW e36, GM's T-56 (LS1 6speed), etc. But to do that I had to manually do the formulas. Find the mph of X gear ratio with Y axle ratio and Z wheel diameter at 6000rpm and compare it to all the other gears and blah blah blah. It is very time consuming and it sucks. I wished that there was a way to find out the RPM drops without having to do all that. But then I got it and man was I very very very excited. Check this out.

B16 transmission for example
1st - 3.230
2nd - 2.105
3rd - 1.458
4th - 1.107
5th - 0.848
final - 4.400

to simply calculate RPM drops:
gear ratio of the next gear / current gear ratio = rpm drop

2nd gear / 1st gear = 1st -> 2nd RPM DROP %
3rd gear / 2nd gear = 2nd -> 3rd RPM DROP %
etc.

B16/ITR tranny
2.105 / 3.230 = 0.65170 or 65.170%
1.458 / 2.105 = 0.69264 or 69.264%
1.107 / 1.458 = 0.75926 or 75.926%
0.848 / 1.107 = 0.76603 or 76.603%

So I take my B16 up to 8000rpms and then shift into 2nd. 8000 * 0.64769 = 5181.52

after shifting from ___ RPMs drop to ____
1st -> 2nd = 5181.52 rpm
2nd -> 3rd = 5541.12 rpm
3rd -> 4th = 6074.08 rpm
4th -> 5th = 6128.24 rpm

And now a table of all the transmission's rpm drops

LS transmission
1.900 / 3.230 = 0.58824 or 58.824%
1.269 / 1.900 = 0.66789 or 66.789%
0.966 / 1.269 = 0.76123 or 76.123%
0.714 / 0.966 = 0.73913 or 73.913%

GSR transmission
1.900 / 3.230 = 0.58824 or 58.824%
1.360 / 1.900 = 0.71579 or 71.578%
1.034 / 1.360 = 0.76029 or 76.029%
0.787 / 1.034 = 0.76112 or 76.112%

B16/USDM ITR tranny
2.105 / 3.230 = 0.65170 or 64.170%
1.458 / 2.105 = 0.69264 or 69.264%
1.107 / 1.458 = 0.75926 or 75.926%
0.848 / 1.107 = 0.76603 or 76.603%

JDM ITR transmission
2.105 / 3.230 = 0.65170 or 64.170%
1.458 / 2.105 = 0.69264 or 69.264%
1.034 / 1.458 = 0.70919 or 70.919%
0.787 / 1.034 = 0.76112 or 76.112%

gsr 1st & 2nd, b16 3rd and 4th, gsr 5th (hybrid tranny mentioned below)
1.900 / 3.230 = 0.58824 or 58.824%
1.458 / 1.900 = 0.76737 or 76.737%
1.107 / 1.458 = 0.75926 or 75.926%
0.787 / 1.107 = 0.71093 or 71.093%

b16/itr 1st & 2nd, infinitude 1.695 3rd, 1.384/1.296 4th, 1.0 5th gears
2.105 / 3.230 = 0.65170 or 64.170%
1.695 / 2.105 = 0.80523 or 80.523%
1.384 / 1.695 = 0.81652 or 81.652% or 1.296 / 1.695 = 0.76460 or 76.460%
1.000 / 1.384 = 0.72254 or 72.254% or 1.000 / 1.296 = 0.77160 or 77.160%

gsr 1st & 2nd, infinitude 1.695 3rd, 1.384/1.296 4th, 1.0 5th gears
1.900 / 3.230 = 0.58824 or 58.824%
1.695 / 1.900 = 0.89210 or 89.210%
1.384 / 1.695 = 0.81652 or 81.652% or 1.296 / 1.695 = 0.76460 or 76.460%
1.000 / 1.384 = 0.72254 or 72.254% or 1.000 / 1.296 = 0.77160 or 77.160%

Spoon Gear set:
1.944 / 2.533 = 0.76747 or 76.747%
1.591 / 1.944 = 0.81842 or 81.842%
1.280 / 1.591 = 0.80453 or 80.453%
1.033 / 1.280 = 0.80703 or 80.703%

My infinitude d16y8 trans with crx si 3rd as 4th
1.909 / 3.250 = 0.58738 or 58.738%
1.565 / 1.909 = 0.81980 or 81.980%
1.259 / 1.565 = 0.80447 or 80.447%
1.000 / 1.259 = 0.79428 or 79.428%

my crazy d-series hybrid tranny (url at bottom of page)
1.900 / 3.250 = 0.58466 or 58.466%
1.346 / 1.900 = 0.70842 or 70.842%
1.033 / 1.346 = 0.76746 or 76.746%
0.750 / 1.033 = 0.72604 or 72.604% (si 5th)
0.771 / 1.033 = 0.74637 or 74.637% (ef 5th)
0.878 / 1.033 = 0.84995 or 84.995% (zc 5th)

Because of these ratios and the relation they have to each other (RPM Drops) Unless you're making LOTS of power (over 250whp) you want to use these ratios you're trying to optimize your quarter mile times. The reason is that they are the closest together RPM wise. Yeah, you may be making 500whp on your turbo civic, but you may not hit 500whp until you're at the very end of RPM range. This comes out to "........500WHPyeahhhhhh....shift...................500WHPwoohoo!!!" Like I said earlier, you have 3 OEM final drives to choose from, 4.266, 4.400, and 4.785.

If you have a high hp turbo honda, you (like most people) have traction issues. This is because you don't have enough traction. In the quest of acquiring more you have ONLY two options.
1. put less torque to your tires
2. get better tires.
There are different ways to put less power to the wheels. You can either lower your boost level, or use gearing to reduce your torque. If you use the ls transmission your gears are going to be further apart and your RPM drops are going to be greater. This is going to hurt your acceleration Inheritently this is an issue that many people are trying to overcome, because of this, I have hypothesized and come up with a great hybrid theory (loads linkin park playlist in winamp).

1st = 3.23
2nd = 1.9
3rd = 1.458
4th = 1.107
5th = whatever you want (:

utilizing the gsr/ls 1st and 2nd gear along with b16 3rd and 4th gears. The reason being, 1st gear is the same no matter what, so there's no choice, the taller 2nd gear because traction is usually such an issue in 2nd gear that you might as well have it carry you further into 3rd anyways. b16 3rd and 4th gear ratios, and whatever 5th. This results in the closest OEM 2nd/3rd/4th gear ratios. (lowest rpm drops) Most people try to avoid shifting into 5th anyways, so if you'd like, you can use a taller LS or GSR 5th gear. it's up to you.

In typing this page, I am covering mostly the theory to show YOU what I have learned and attempt to explain what's really going on. At this point I just don't feel like pluggin all the numbers in for you. If you want to run 25" slicks with a 4.4 final drive and you want to know what mph you'll be at when you redline at 8000 rpms, well put it in the formula.

MPH = (RPM)(TIRE DIAMETER in inches) / (GEAR RATIO)(FINAL DRIVE) (336)

So you wanna graph your gear ratios on your ti83? Here's how:

set your window for
Xmin=0
Xmax=150 (max mph, i just put 150 in cause i know i'll never go over that speed)
Xscl=10 (for 10mph markers on the x-axis)
Ymin=-500 (just cause i wanna see the vertical line representing the Y-axis)
Ymax=7500 (or whatever you're going to be revving to)
Yscl=500 (for 500rpm markers on the y-axis)
Xres=1 (i dunno what this does, always been told to ignore it)

set your Y= for...:
Y1={(x)(first gear ratio)(final drive ratio)(336)}/{(wheel diameter)}
Y2={(x)(second gear ratio)(final drive ratio)(336)}/{(wheel diameter)}
and so forth.

Then press graph and there ya go! SWEEEEEET!

BLING!!!

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EDIT: Here's some more calculations:
##########################################################################################
Gearbox:- Integra LS (b18b)
Tire:- 205/50 x 15
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Top Gear gives 21.911 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 175.285 MPH at 8000 RPM

Engine speeds in top gear:-
30 MPH = 1369 RPM
40 MPH = 1826 RPM
50 MPH = 2282 RPM
60 MPH = 2738 RPM
70 MPH = 3195 RPM
80 MPH = 3651 RPM
90 MPH = 4108 RPM
100 MPH = 4564 RPM

Top Speed in 1 gear = 38.747 MPH
And changes into 2 gear at 4706 RPM dropping 3294 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 65.870 MPH
And changes into 3 gear at 5373 RPM dropping 2627 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 98.083 MPH
And changes into 4 gear at 6056 RPM dropping 1944 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 129.559 MPH
And changes into 5 gear at 5913 RPM dropping 2087 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 175.285 MPH
##########################################################################################
Gearbox:- Integra GSR (b18c1)
Tire:- 205/50 x 15
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Top Gear gives 19.273 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 154.183 MPH at 8000 RPM

Engine speeds in top gear:-
30 MPH = 1557 RPM
40 MPH = 2075 RPM
50 MPH = 2594 RPM
60 MPH = 3113 RPM
70 MPH = 3632 RPM
80 MPH = 4151 RPM
90 MPH = 4670 RPM
100 MPH = 5189 RPM

Top Speed in 1 gear = 37.567 MPH
And changes into 2 gear at 4706 RPM dropping 3294 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 63.864 MPH
And changes into 3 gear at 5726 RPM dropping 2274 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 89.222 MPH
And changes into 4 gear at 6082 RPM dropping 1918 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 117.352 MPH
And changes into 5 gear at 6089 RPM dropping 1911 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 154.183 MPH
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Gearbox:- b16a / USDM ITR
Tire:- 205/50 x 15
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Top Gear gives 17.887 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 143.092 MPH at 8000 RPM

Engine speeds in top gear:-
30 MPH = 1677 RPM
40 MPH = 2236 RPM
50 MPH = 2795 RPM
60 MPH = 3354 RPM
70 MPH = 3914 RPM
80 MPH = 4473 RPM
90 MPH = 5032 RPM
100 MPH = 5591 RPM

Top Speed in 1 gear = 37.567 MPH
And changes into 2 gear at 5214 RPM dropping 2786 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 57.645 MPH
And changes into 3 gear at 5541 RPM dropping 2459 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 83.225 MPH
And changes into 4 gear at 6074 RPM dropping 1926 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 109.614 MPH
And changes into 5 gear at 6128 RPM dropping 1872 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 143.092 MPH
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Gearbox:- JDM ITR 98+
Tire:- 205/50 x 15
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Top Gear gives 17.722 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 141.778 MPH at 8000 RPM

Engine speeds in top gear:-
30 MPH = 1693 RPM
40 MPH = 2257 RPM
50 MPH = 2821 RPM
60 MPH = 3386 RPM
70 MPH = 3950 RPM
80 MPH = 4514 RPM
90 MPH = 5078 RPM
100 MPH = 5643 RPM

Top Speed in 1 gear = 34.545 MPH
And changes into 2 gear at 5214 RPM dropping 2786 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 53.007 MPH
And changes into 3 gear at 5541 RPM dropping 2459 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 76.529 MPH
And changes into 4 gear at 5674 RPM dropping 2326 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 107.910 MPH
And changes into 5 gear at 6089 RPM dropping 1911 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 141.778 MPH
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And here's a graph showing the visual difference between the gears. Notice how far apart the LS gears are compared to the others.

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Much more to come!

And please for goodness sake, we need a transmission forum. I see so many of the same questions in different forums. B-series aren't limited to integras, they also are swapped into civics. People don't only turbo them. They do NA tweaks. I see the same question asked over and over again but it's in different forums.

D-series guys? check this out http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1449896